(article updated on 2012.6)
天殺的,又來了!每次嚴肅的要去完成夢想,就會有這些事情發生。

從2008年3月開始於Kidal 地區發生戰亂,當地的〝北非凱達恐怖組織 AQIM〞 陸續綁架一些西方人當人質、甚至有的就地處決,2011年綁架是件更是頻繁。今年1月17日反叛軍〝圖阿雷格族(Touareg)〞與政府軍破壞已經維繫3年的和平瓦解,在馬利北方爆發戰火,迫使一堆難民逃往邊境國家,而所有旅客也都被驅逐離開。

想要探訪的Timbuktu泥巴清真寺、Cure Salee 游牧民族節、Dogon Mask Dance 多貢面具舞儀式都在馬利北部。現在不只是馬利境內發生綁架與戰亂,連馬利北部與阿爾及利亞(Algeria)、尼日(Niger)、茅利塔尼亞(Mauritania)、奈及利亞(Nigeria)邊界薩哈拉沙漠涵蓋區域都有凱達恐怖組織。英國三月初試圖拯救在奈及利亞北部被綁架的人質行動失敗,兩名人質被處決。馬利政局一向穩定,但利比亞強人格達費垮台之後,為他效命的圖瓦雷格族(Touareg)傭兵攜帶大批武器返回馬利,將馬利變成火藥庫。最近(3月22日)馬利軍人組成的「國家民主安置委員會」對於政府對北方圖瓦雷格族叛亂沒有作為而不滿,發動軍事政變,總統落荒而逃,同時宣布全國實施宵禁。

去馬利,是「第六個夢想」,等了十幾年了,完成後就要當不屬任何單位的隱居俠女去。2004年要去因爆發猛烈性冷凍肩無法去,又再等八年,今年(2012年)準備差不多了,整裝想去,八種預防針(包括很貴的黃熱病)都打了,我真的準備好百分之好幾百的決心要去,但被這陣子馬利與西北非天殺的情勢給打敗。

每次這些消息一來,我的決心都無奈的被打擊一次,並被扣分,還是不死心仍想去,但馬利陸續一連串一發不可收拾的慘狀,所有旅客都被驅逐出境,簽證也根本下不來。這陣子心情曾〝悶〞到最高點,〝感嘆!〞也曾掉滿地,最後今年需做出痛苦決定-〝黃牛〞。

唉!這麼美、這麼多文化藝術的國家又將在人類永遠吵不完的紛亂中給破壞了。原本是趟浪漫感性的文化之旅,未來可能又要像東非那趟行程,變成苦難戰亂報導之旅。

馬利,後會有期。未來,我一定會去的!會去跟牧民一起在沙漠游牧, 讓生活回到最原始的行走與生存目的。


● 馬利的情勢 (2011.11 ~ 2012)

註:AQIM (Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb)是蓋達恐怖組織在馬利的分支。

紅色區域為危險區域目前仍嚴禁進入 (圖片來源)

天殺的!想去的地方現在都被禁止了!下列標記城市都被北非蓋達或叛軍佔領。
嚴禁進入區域有:(Kidal, Gao, Koulikoro (north of Mourdiah), Ségou (north of Niono), Tombouctou (including the city of Tombouctou (Timbuktu)), Mopti, and areas bordering Mauritania east of Nioro in the Kayes province)

照片來源:AL Arabiya News
2012-03_mali-02

照片來源:UNHCR
2012-02_mali-refugee 2012-02_mali-refugee2

 

馬利與西北非最新狀況:
. 西非領袖 召開馬利危機峰會 (法新社 2012/04/02)
. 馬利軍事政變 總統落荒而逃 (中國時報 2012/03/23)
. 馬利士兵叛變 宣布實施宵禁 (中央社╱巴馬科22日綜合外電報導 2012/03/22)
. 馬利士兵變節 宣稱攻占總統府 (聯合晚報2012/3/22)
Mali coup leaders close all borders amid condemnation from Washington and Africa (2012.03.22)
Mali president ‘safe’ after fleeing from overnight rebel coup (2012.03.22)
Tuareg rebels take Mali garrison town, say sources (2012.03.20)
Mali Tuareg rebels deny Qaeda (2012.02.24)
. 英國拯救人質失敗 人質被處決(中央社╱羅馬9日綜合外電報導 (2012/03/08)
. 西非馬利內戰 逾2萬難民逃亡 (中央社╱約翰尼斯堡7日專電 (2012/02/08)
. 馬利劫案 北非蓋達組織認了 (大紀元 2011/12/12)
. 凱達組織在非洲馬利綁架5名外國人 (雅虎奇摩 2011/12/9)
. UNHCR steps up emergency response to crisis in Mali (2012/2/7)
. Mali: Qaeda Group Claims Kidnap of Five Europeans in Country (2011/12/9)
. l-Qaeda gunmen execute tourist after bursting into restaurant and kidnapping three men in Timbuktu (2011/11/26)
. Mali travel advice from UK warning

Threats  to Safety  and Security in Mali and Sub Saharan Africa (資料來源UNHCR)

The U.S. Department of State and the U.S. Embassy in Bamako recommends against U.S. citizens traveling to the northern regions of Mali – Gao, Kidal, and Timbuktu. The terrorist group Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) continues to use northern Mali as a safe haven and platform from which to conduct operations. As noted in the Department of State’s current Travel Warning for Mali and the Worldwide Caution, AQIM has declared its intention to attack Western targets throughout the Sahel (including Mali, Mauritania, and Niger), and has claimed responsibility for the following recent kidnappings/attempted kidnappings and other violent events:

  • 2012.04.02 – DAKAR (AFP) – West African leaders gathered in Dakar on Monday for a meeting on the unfolding crisis in Mali, in which they are expected to decide whether to cut off Mali’s trade and financial ties to its neighbours.
  • 2012.03.31 – The British Embassy in Bamako warning : We advise against all travel to Mali. Some flights are operating but are heavily subscribed. Given ongoing instability in the country, and now that the airport has re-opened, you should leave if you have no pressing need to remain.
  • 2012.03.08 – Hostages killed in failed rescue attempt to free him from captors in Nigeria
  • 2012.03.02 – Refugees from Mali continue to arrive in neighbouring countries
  • 2012.02.20 – Shops and businesses in Bamako are re-opening. The Embassy has resumed operating a normal service.
  • 2012.02.17 – UNHCR boosts aid as Mali outflow doubles in size
  • 2012.02.14 – UNHCR set to help relocate thousands of Malian refugees from borders
  • 2012.02.07 – UNHCR addresses needs of 20,000 forced to flee violence in Mali
  • 2012.02.07 – UNHCR steps up emergency response to crisis in Mali
  • 2012.02.07 – Violence in northern Mali forces over 20,000 into exile
  • 2011.12.20 – Mauritanian military police were attacked in Adel Begrou, near the Mali border. One Gendarme was kidnapped in the attack.
  • 2011.11.25 – Four tourists were attacked in Tombouctou. One was killed and three others kidnapped. The Malian authorities subsequently evacuated all foreign tourists from Tombouctou.
  • 2011.11.24 – Two French nationals were kidnapped from a hotel in the town of Hombori, to the north east of Mopti.
  • 2011.01.05 – The French Embassy in Bamako was attacked by an individual using explosives and a handgun.
  • 2011.02.05 – Italian woman kidnapped in Southern Algeria (Still being held hostage).
  • 2011.02.02 – Vehicle-Borne Improvised Explosive Device attack foiled by Mauritanian security forces outside of Nouakchott, Mauritania.
  • 2011.01.07 – Two French nationals kidnapped and executed shortly thereafter in Niamey, Niger.
  • 2011.01.05 – An individual claiming connections to AQIM attacked the French Embassy in Bamako, Mali with a handgun and improvised explosive device.
  • 2010.09.16 – Five French citizens, a Togolese citizen, and a Malagasy citizen were kidnapped in Northern Niger. The Togolese, Malagasy, and one French citizen were released, but four French citizens are still being held by AQIM.
  • 2010.04.01 – French NGO worker kidnapped in Niger, executed by captors on July 24, 2010.
  • 2009.12.18 – Two Italian citizens kidnapped in southeastern Mauritania on the road to Mali and held in Mali (both were subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.29 – Three Spanish citizens kidnapped traveling between the Mauritanian capital of Nouakchott and port of Nouadhibou, and later held in Mali (all three were subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.25 – French citizen kidnapped near the city of Menaka (subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.14 – An attempted kidnapping of U.S. government employees by heavily armed individuals in Tahoua, Niger.
  • 2009.08.08 – Suicide-bombing against French Embassy officials in Mauritania.
  • 2009.06.23 – The murder of a U.S. citizen in Mauritania.
  • 2009.01.22 – Four European tourists kidnapped on the Mali-Niger border and held in Mali. Three were released, but a British national who was part of this group was later executed.
  • 2008.12.14 – Two Canadian citizen United Nations officials kidnapped north of the Nigerien capital of Niamey and held in Mali (both subsequently released).

The threat posed by AQIM, potential Tuareg unrest, sporadic banditry, run-ins with traffickers, and the porous nature of Mali’s northern borders with Algeria, Niger, and Mauritania all reinforce longstanding security concerns affecting travel to northern Mali. In many, if not all, of the above listed kidnapping cases, the individuals were held in northern Mali even though most were not kidnapped there. In addition to threats posed by AQIM and potential hostage takers, there have been confrontations between the Malian military and Tuareg rebel groups in Nampala (along Mali’s frontier with Mauritania) in December 2008, and in the region of Kidal in January 2009. Additionally, the Sahel has been used by traffickers in arms, drugs, and people because of its remoteness and centralized location between Europe and Sub-Saharan Africa for hundreds of years. While these elements usually attempt to avoid contact with outsiders, even an accidental encounter could generate a violent response due to the illicit nature of their activities.

The U.S. Embassy in Bamako has designated the three northern regions of Mali as “restricted without prior authorization" for purposes of travel by U.S. government employees, contractors, grantees, and their dependents. Prior to traveling to these areas, U.S. government employees are required to have the written approval of the U.S. ambassador to Mali. Though this restriction does not apply to private U.S. citizens, it should be taken into account by all U.S. citizens contemplating travel to Mali. The restriction is in effect for the following regions:

  • Kidal;
  • Gao, including the road to Ansongo and the border with Niger; and
  • Timbuktu (Tombouctou).

Although the we place the highest priority on the safe recovery of kidnapped U.S. citizens, it is U.S. policy not to make concessions to kidnappers. Consequently, our ability to assist kidnap victims is limited.

For the latest security information, U.S. citizens traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Bureau of Consular Affairs website, Travel Warnings and Travel Alerts, as well as the current Worldwide Caution.