我喜歡雪地、也喜歡沙漠旱地,這次利用週末去了「死亡谷」。一般人來死亡谷,通常都是花一天開車走馬看花,便離開了。死亡谷有些「絕妙」的地方一定要開吉普車才能進去,而只有來趟「吉普車」穿越深山峻谷,才算是真正來過死亡谷。
我們是從柏克萊(Berkeley)開了9小時來到死亡谷。來死亡谷建議至少花三天以上的時間,好好把死亡谷探究一翻,在死亡谷玩出生命活力。死亡谷大部分地點開一般車即可,但要去探訪一些深山峻谷則需租吉普車,有些旅館會提供免費或便宜的吉普車出租。
死亡谷是個非常極端的地方,是美國最大的國家公園,北美海拔最低的地方在這裡,最高溫的紀錄也在這裡(曾有攝氏57度),降雨量最低的地方也在這裡。死亡谷有沙漠、有峽谷、有火山岩、有會走動的石頭、有鬼城、有鹽谷、有調色山谷…..。這種極端,很好玩!
但這次卻遇到笑不出來的事 – 在那攝氏48度無人煙的沙漠旱地車子拋錨。死亡谷面積廣大,幾呼沒人煙,在週末出事,那真是叫天不靈、呼地不應。當地當然沒有公車、計程車,連手機都未必 行得通,叫警察他們也不理。水帶不夠,是很危險的。等待救援過程,有點狼狽,不過還是好玩啦。在那種時候,就是要發揮「苦中作樂」精神,讓自己繼續「玩耍」開心,把自己順利救出來。
實用資訊
- Death Valley National Park, [Visitor Guide 2012 (pdf檔)]
- Death Valley National Park (wikipedia)
- Death Valley MAP
- Death Valley 天氣預報
- 其他資訊
死亡谷主要含有四區:(1)Furnace Creek Area (2)Scotty’s Area (3)Stovepipe Wells Area (4)Panamint Springs Area
(一) Furnace Creek Area
- Harmony Borax Works 和諧硼砂舊工廠
Follow an easy 1/4 mile walking trail to learn about this important site in Death Valley’s history. The Harmony Borax operation became famous through the use of 20 mule teams that moved borax from Death Valley to nearby communities. 有過去硼砂舊工廠的遺跡。和諧硼砂廠加工硼砂礦從爐小河附近大約1884年到1888年。 二十騾隊貨車拖拉,礦石165英里遠的軍需。 - Artist Drive 藝術家車駛道 、 Artist Paletts 藝術家調色盤山谷
A scenic loop drive through multi-hued volcanic and sedimentary hills. Artist’s Palette is especially photogenic in late afternoon light. The 9 mile paved road is one-way and is only drivable with vehicles less than 25 feet in length. 非常美的一條路,這段段路需開車。藝術家調色盤山谷是在藝術家車駛道的尾端。 一定要去。 - Badwater Basin 壞水盆地 (* hiking)
The lowest point in North America, Badwater Basin is a surreal landscape of vast salt flats. A temporary lake may form here after heavy rainstorms. Do not walk on the salt flats in hot weather. 一定要去。
一大片低於海拔以下100英尺的鹽谷地,科徐家發現鹽晶有了存活3萬年之久細菌。據英國《新科學家》雜誌報導,美國科學家研究發現,在一塊鹽晶中發現了存活3萬年之久細菌,它們以同樣身陷囹圄的藻類遺骸為食。這是迄今有關生物體長期生存的最具說服力的例證。美國夏威夷大學微生物學家布萊恩-舒伯特(Brian Schubert)及同事對從加利福尼亞州“死亡穀”提取的沉積岩心中的鹽晶進行了研究。鹽晶中含有微小的液體袋狀物,舒伯特的研究小組發現,太古菌落能 依靠這些液體的樣本存活。他們確定了液體的年代在距今2.2萬至3.4萬年前。太古菌落可以借助鹽晶內的液體生長,而鹽晶的歷史也可追溯至3.4萬年前。這不是科學家首次發現細菌可以通過鹽晶內液體包進行培養的例證。在此之前,一個研究小組就報告稱,他們利用距今2.5億年的液體成功培育了細菌。不過,由於鹽晶會隨時間分解和再結晶,從而捕捉到現代細菌,有人對最新研究結果提出了質疑。(資料 from 百度) - Zabriskie Point (Badlands) 壞地
Surrounded by a maze of wildly eroded and vibrantly colored badlands, this spectacular view is one of the park’s most famous. Zabriskie Point is a popular sunrise and sunset viewing location. The viewpoint is a short walk uphill from the parking area. 在這景點可看到不同顏色捲滾的山谷樣貌。一定要去。 - 20-Mule Team Canyon 二十騾隊峽谷 (* Jeep)
— Winding through otherworldly badlands, this 2.7 mile, oneway loop drive is unpaved, but accessible to vehicles other than buses, RV’s, and trailers. 這段段路需開車(吉普車),沿途可觀賞那千變萬化與各種顏色的山谷,美極了。一定要去。 - Dante’s View 單堤觀景 (* hiking)
The most breathtaking viewpoint in the park, this mountain-top overlook is more than 5000 feet above the floor of Death Valley. The paved access road is open to all vehicles less than 25 feet in length. 在這兒可到到整個「adwater Basin 壞水盆地」俯瞰,很美。一定要去。
- The Racetrack 會走動石頭谷地 (* Jeep)
Rocks mysteriously slide across the dry lakebed of the Racetrack, leaving behind long tracks for visitors to ponder. A high-clearance vehicle is needed to traverse the 27 miles of rough dirt road; ask at a ranger station for current road conditions. Once you leave pavement at Ubehebe Crater the drive will take approximately 2.5 hours one-way to the racetrack.
死亡谷的「賽道(The Racetrack)」是一個乾凅鹽湖,此處最有名的是它的「會走動石頭」。雖然沒有人真正見過的石頭移動,但留在泥面後面的蜿蜒軌跡,證明他們的確走動了。(以下資料 from 百度)
死亡谷地面上的石頭會自已移動,並在地面上留下平行滑行痕跡,這種奇特的「會自已移動的石頭還留清晰的痕跡」現象出現于死亡穀「賽道盆地(Racetrack Playa」,在死亡谷是存在著風,卻不足以將這些石頭吹動。在科學家發現石頭移動現象之前的幾天,盆地裡有積水,但是很快盆地乾枯結成龜裂狀土層。令科學家頗有興趣的是,石頭滑行留下的痕跡顯示在泥漿以下1英寸處存在著一個堅硬的土壤層,我們觀測了死亡穀近期幾次風暴中留下的其他泥漿洞,以及測量 岩石滑行中陷入土壤中的深度。結果表明這些石頭甚至像是在湯狀泥漿表層中滑行,陷入泥漿中不超過1英寸,這將解釋為什麼這些石頭未深陷入泥漿中。
同時,科學家也指出,未有跡象表明這些石頭的移動是由於陷入泥漿中“冰筏”造成的,在數英里盆地區域內泥漿乾燥時的跡象顯示,這裡泥漿以下並不像存在著水源或冰層。而且從移動留下的痕跡來看,似乎石頭的移動是在盆地中沒有水時形成的。此外還有一個奇特的現象是石頭移動後土壤的堆積變化,科學家看到石頭移動留下4-5英寸寬的土 壤堆積,在石頭移動最前方堆積著1-2英寸厚的土壤,從而顯示石頭移動時土壤十分鬆散。假設這如果是暴風天氣或其他迴圈風力導致的,但為什麼人們從未看到 如此強勁的暴風現象。這些石頭移動的痕跡很短,在土壤中留下的滑行深度並不深。但是這些移動痕跡很少有規律,卻清晰 可見。奇特的是,能夠清晰地看到4、5處石頭移動的軌跡都是平行的。對於這種石頭移動現象,也不可能是由於人為故意造成的,如果某人故意將這些石頭移動, 會在盆地表面留下足跡的。此外,在最近的一次暴風天氣中未曾發現有石頭出現移動。一定要去,但很遠。
- Ubehebe Crater (火山岩)
Just a few hundred years ago a massive volcanic explosion caused by magma mixing with an underground spring, shattered the silence of northern Death Valley. When the cinders and dust settled, this 600 foot deep crater remained. Although easily visible from the paved road, hikers may want to circle the crater rim to see smaller craters. 一定要去。 - Scotty’s Castle 史考帝城堡
Prospector “Death Valley Scotty” claimed this elaborate Spanish-style mansion was built by gold from his fictitious mine. In reality, it was the 1920s vacation home of his wealthy friends. Today, living history tours of the castle’s richly furnished interior are given by costumed park rangers.
隱藏在遠北部死亡谷,死亡谷的牧場,或斯科蒂的城堡,因為它是俗稱的葡萄峽谷的綠洲,是到咆哮的20年代和大蕭條30年代的生活和時代的窗口。圖片:來源
- Golden Canyan 黃金峽谷(Hiking) (* hiking)
1 mile, one-way. Golden Canyon parking area, 2 miles south of Hwy 190 on Badwater Road. Easy trail through colorful canyon. Red Cathedral located ? mile up canyon from last numbered marker. An interpretive trail guide is available. 一定要去。 - Devil Golf Course 邪惡高爾夫場 (* Jeep)
An immense area of rock salt eroded by wind and rain into jagged spires. So incredibly serrated that “only the devil could play golf on such rough links.”The unpaved road leading to it is often closed after rain. 一定要去。 - Wildrose Charcoal Kilns Wildrose Peak Trail 野玫瑰木炭窯 (* Jeep)
These ten beehive-shaped structures are among the best preserved in the west. Built in 1876 to provide fuel to process silver/lead ore, they still smell of smoke today. The last 2 miles of gravel road to the kilns are passable to most vehicles. 4.2 miles, one-way.
這十個蜂箱形的結構是在西部地區是保存最完好的木炭窯。建於1877年提供燃料處理銀/鉛礦石。一定要去。 - Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes 沙丘
Tawny dunes smoothly rising nearly 100 feet from Mesquite Flat. Late afternoon light accentuates the ripples and patterns while morning is a good time to view tracks of nocturnal wildlife. Moonlight on the dunes can be magical, yet night explorers should be alert for sidewinder rattlesnakes during the warm season. 跟非洲薩哈拉沙漠當然不能比,但沒去過薩哈拉沙漠想看沙漠沙丘的人,還是值得一看。 - Salt Creek 鹽溪 (* Jeep)
This stream of salty water is the only home to a rare pupfish, Cyprinodon salinus. Springtime is best for viewing pupfish; in summer the lower stream dries up and in winter the fish are not as active in Salt Creek. The wooden boardwalk loops 1/2 mile through stands of pickleweed and past pools reflecting badland hills. Wheelchair accessible. 1 mile off Hwy 190 on graded gravel road, 13.5 miles north of Furnace Creek. pupfish and other wildlife. Best in late winter/early spring. - Mosaic Canyon 馬賽克峽谷 (Hiking)
Polished marble walls and odd mosaic patterns of breccia make this small canyon a favorite. The twisting lower canyon is so narrow hikers must walk through it single-file. Some rock scrambling is required. The canyon opens up after ? mile to reveal the heights of Tucki Mountain, but hikers can continue another 1 1/2miles. 2 miles, one-way. Popular walk up a narrow, polished marble-walled canyon. First ? mile is narrowest section. Some slickrock scrambling necessary. “Mosaics" of fragments of rocks cemented together can be seen in canyon walls. Bighorn sheep sighted occasionally. - Titus Canyon 逖特斯峽谷 (* Jeep)
The largest and most diverse canyon in the park. Within its lofty walls visitors can find volcanic deposits, a ghost town, Indian petroglyphs, bighorn sheep, and deep, winding narrows. Titus Canyon is accessible to high-clearance vehicles via a 26 mile, one-way dirt road beginning outside the park. The trip will take 3 hours from Beatty to Scotty’s Castle Road. 一定要去。 - Rhyolite (Ghost Town) 瓶子屋
- Leadfiled (Ghost Town) 鬼城
- Rainbow Canyon
- Father Crowley Vista
- Red Pass
- Fall Canyon (* Hiking)
圖片: 來源
(二) Scotty’s Area
(三) Stovepipe Wells Area
(四) Panamint Springs Area
其他參考網站: