(article updated on 2012.6)
天杀的,又来了!每次严肃的要去完成梦想,就会有这些事情发生。

从2008年3月开始于Kidal 地区发生战乱,当地的〝北非凯达恐怖组织 AQIM〞 陆续绑架一些西方人当人质、甚至有的就地处决,2011年绑架是件更是频繁。今年1月17日反叛军〝图阿雷格族(Touareg)〞与政府军破坏已经维系3年的和平瓦解,在马利北方爆发战火,迫使一堆难民逃往边境国家,而所有旅客也都被驱逐离开。

想要探访的Timbuktu泥巴清真寺、Cure Salee 游牧民族节、Dogon Mask Dance 多贡面具舞仪式都在马利北部。现在不只是马利境内发生绑架与战乱,连马利北部与阿尔及利亚(Algeria)、尼日(Niger)、茅利塔尼亚(Mauritania)、奈及利亚(Nigeria)边界萨哈拉沙漠涵盖区域都有凯达恐怖组织。英国三月初试图拯救在奈及利亚北部被绑架的人质行动失败,两名人质被处决。马利政局一向稳定,但利比亚强人格达费垮台之后,为他效命的图瓦雷格族(Touareg)佣兵携带大批武器返回马利,将马利变成火药库。最近(3月22日)马利军人组成的「国家民主安置委员会」对于政府对北方图瓦雷格族叛乱没有作为而不满,发动军事政变,总统落荒而逃,同时宣布全国实施宵禁。

去马利,是「第六个梦想」,等了十几年了,完成后就要当不属任何单位的隐居侠女去。2004年要去因爆发猛烈性冷冻肩无法去,又再等八年,今年(2012年)准备差不多了,整装想去,八种预防针(包括很贵的黄热病)都打了,我真的准备好百分之好几百的决心要去,但被这阵子马利与西北非天杀的情势给打败。

每次这些消息一来,我的决心都无奈的被打击一次,并被扣分,还是不死心仍想去,但马利陆续一连串一发不可收拾的惨状,所有旅客都被驱逐出境,签证也根本下不来。这阵子心情曾〝闷〞到最高点,〝感叹!〞也曾掉满地,最后今年需做出痛苦决定-〝黄牛〞。

唉!这么美、这么多文化艺术的国家又将在人类永远吵不完的纷乱中给破坏了。原本是趟浪漫感性的文化之旅,未来可能又要像东非那趟行程,变成苦难战乱报导之旅。

马利,后会有期。未来,我一定会去的!会去跟牧民一起在沙漠游牧, 让生活回到最原始的行走与生存目的。


● 马利的情势 (2011.11 ~ 2012)

注:AQIM (Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb)是盖达恐怖组织在马利的分支。

红色区域为危险区域目前仍严禁进入 (图片来源)

天杀的!想去的地方现在都被禁止了!下列标记城市都被北非盖达或叛军占领。
严禁进入区域有:(Kidal, Gao, Koulikoro (north of Mourdiah), Ségou (north of Niono), Tombouctou (including the city of Tombouctou (Timbuktu)), Mopti, and areas bordering Mauritania east of Nioro in the Kayes province)

照片来源:AL Arabiya News
2012-03_mali-02

照片来源:UNHCR
2012-02_mali-refugee 2012-02_mali-refugee2

 

马利与西北非最新状况:
. 西非领袖 召开马利危机峰会 (法新社 2012/04/02)
. 马利军事政变 总统落荒而逃 (中国时报 2012/03/23)
. 马利士兵叛变 宣布实施宵禁 (中央社╱巴马科22日综合外电报导 2012/03/22)
. 马利士兵变节 宣称攻占总统府 (联合晚报2012/3/22)
Mali coup leaders close all borders amid condemnation from Washington and Africa (2012.03.22)
Mali president ‘safe’ after fleeing from overnight rebel coup (2012.03.22)
Tuareg rebels take Mali garrison town, say sources (2012.03.20)
Mali Tuareg rebels deny Qaeda (2012.02.24)
. 英国拯救人质失败 人质被处决(中央社╱罗马9日综合外电报导 (2012/03/08)
. 西非马利内战 逾2万难民逃亡 (中央社╱约翰尼斯堡7日专电 (2012/02/08)
. 马利劫案 北非盖达组织认了 (大纪元 2011/12/12)
. 凯达组织在非洲马利绑架5名外国人 (雅虎奇摩 2011/12/9)
. UNHCR steps up emergency response to crisis in Mali (2012/2/7)
. Mali: Qaeda Group Claims Kidnap of Five Europeans in Country (2011/12/9)
. l-Qaeda gunmen execute tourist after bursting into restaurant and kidnapping three men in Timbuktu (2011/11/26)
. Mali travel advice from UK warning

Threats  to Safety  and Security in Mali and Sub Saharan Africa (资料来源UNHCR)

The U.S. Department of State and the U.S. Embassy in Bamako recommends against U.S. citizens traveling to the northern regions of Mali – Gao, Kidal, and Timbuktu. The terrorist group Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) continues to use northern Mali as a safe haven and platform from which to conduct operations. As noted in the Department of State’s current Travel Warning for Mali and the Worldwide Caution, AQIM has declared its intention to attack Western targets throughout the Sahel (including Mali, Mauritania, and Niger), and has claimed responsibility for the following recent kidnappings/attempted kidnappings and other violent events:

  • 2012.04.02 – DAKAR (AFP) – West African leaders gathered in Dakar on Monday for a meeting on the unfolding crisis in Mali, in which they are expected to decide whether to cut off Mali’s trade and financial ties to its neighbours.
  • 2012.03.31 – The British Embassy in Bamako warning : We advise against all travel to Mali. Some flights are operating but are heavily subscribed. Given ongoing instability in the country, and now that the airport has re-opened, you should leave if you have no pressing need to remain.
  • 2012.03.08 – Hostages killed in failed rescue attempt to free him from captors in Nigeria
  • 2012.03.02 – Refugees from Mali continue to arrive in neighbouring countries
  • 2012.02.20 – Shops and businesses in Bamako are re-opening. The Embassy has resumed operating a normal service.
  • 2012.02.17 – UNHCR boosts aid as Mali outflow doubles in size
  • 2012.02.14 – UNHCR set to help relocate thousands of Malian refugees from borders
  • 2012.02.07 – UNHCR addresses needs of 20,000 forced to flee violence in Mali
  • 2012.02.07 – UNHCR steps up emergency response to crisis in Mali
  • 2012.02.07 – Violence in northern Mali forces over 20,000 into exile
  • 2011.12.20 – Mauritanian military police were attacked in Adel Begrou, near the Mali border. One Gendarme was kidnapped in the attack.
  • 2011.11.25 – Four tourists were attacked in Tombouctou. One was killed and three others kidnapped. The Malian authorities subsequently evacuated all foreign tourists from Tombouctou.
  • 2011.11.24 – Two French nationals were kidnapped from a hotel in the town of Hombori, to the north east of Mopti.
  • 2011.01.05 – The French Embassy in Bamako was attacked by an individual using explosives and a handgun.
  • 2011.02.05 – Italian woman kidnapped in Southern Algeria (Still being held hostage).
  • 2011.02.02 – Vehicle-Borne Improvised Explosive Device attack foiled by Mauritanian security forces outside of Nouakchott, Mauritania.
  • 2011.01.07 – Two French nationals kidnapped and executed shortly thereafter in Niamey, Niger.
  • 2011.01.05 – An individual claiming connections to AQIM attacked the French Embassy in Bamako, Mali with a handgun and improvised explosive device.
  • 2010.09.16 – Five French citizens, a Togolese citizen, and a Malagasy citizen were kidnapped in Northern Niger. The Togolese, Malagasy, and one French citizen were released, but four French citizens are still being held by AQIM.
  • 2010.04.01 – French NGO worker kidnapped in Niger, executed by captors on July 24, 2010.
  • 2009.12.18 – Two Italian citizens kidnapped in southeastern Mauritania on the road to Mali and held in Mali (both were subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.29 – Three Spanish citizens kidnapped traveling between the Mauritanian capital of Nouakchott and port of Nouadhibou, and later held in Mali (all three were subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.25 – French citizen kidnapped near the city of Menaka (subsequently released).
  • 2009.11.14 – An attempted kidnapping of U.S. government employees by heavily armed individuals in Tahoua, Niger.
  • 2009.08.08 – Suicide-bombing against French Embassy officials in Mauritania.
  • 2009.06.23 – The murder of a U.S. citizen in Mauritania.
  • 2009.01.22 – Four European tourists kidnapped on the Mali-Niger border and held in Mali. Three were released, but a British national who was part of this group was later executed.
  • 2008.12.14 – Two Canadian citizen United Nations officials kidnapped north of the Nigerien capital of Niamey and held in Mali (both subsequently released).

The threat posed by AQIM, potential Tuareg unrest, sporadic banditry, run-ins with traffickers, and the porous nature of Mali’s northern borders with Algeria, Niger, and Mauritania all reinforce longstanding security concerns affecting travel to northern Mali. In many, if not all, of the above listed kidnapping cases, the individuals were held in northern Mali even though most were not kidnapped there. In addition to threats posed by AQIM and potential hostage takers, there have been confrontations between the Malian military and Tuareg rebel groups in Nampala (along Mali’s frontier with Mauritania) in December 2008, and in the region of Kidal in January 2009. Additionally, the Sahel has been used by traffickers in arms, drugs, and people because of its remoteness and centralized location between Europe and Sub-Saharan Africa for hundreds of years. While these elements usually attempt to avoid contact with outsiders, even an accidental encounter could generate a violent response due to the illicit nature of their activities.

The U.S. Embassy in Bamako has designated the three northern regions of Mali as “restricted without prior authorization" for purposes of travel by U.S. government employees, contractors, grantees, and their dependents. Prior to traveling to these areas, U.S. government employees are required to have the written approval of the U.S. ambassador to Mali. Though this restriction does not apply to private U.S. citizens, it should be taken into account by all U.S. citizens contemplating travel to Mali. The restriction is in effect for the following regions:

  • Kidal;
  • Gao, including the road to Ansongo and the border with Niger; and
  • Timbuktu (Tombouctou).

Although the we place the highest priority on the safe recovery of kidnapped U.S. citizens, it is U.S. policy not to make concessions to kidnappers. Consequently, our ability to assist kidnap victims is limited.

For the latest security information, U.S. citizens traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Bureau of Consular Affairs website, Travel Warnings and Travel Alerts, as well as the current Worldwide Caution.